Editor: Don't judge a book, dog or blog by its cover. The reason
I'm the muse behind Grouchy PuppyTM is that I may look mellow
and usually I am, but I also have a grouchy side. This part of my
nature makes me a real dog behind a cute name. It also gives my pack
real issues to deal with as responsible and loving pet parents.
My female met Deborah Flick of BoulderDog at Blog Paws in
Columbus and bonded right away over stories and photos of their beloved
pooches (Hi Sadie!). This guest post from Deborah will run in two
parts and addresses one of my issues, separation anxiety.
In case you missed part one, here's the link
Please
Don't Leave: Separation Anxiety in Dogs - Part 2
But
what if your dog's separation anxiety is severe? What if you feel
you’ve tried everything and nothing has helped? What if it’s not
possible to manage the situation so your dog doesn’t ever experience
separation anxiety?
Then it’s desensitization time! The
good news? When done properly, desensitization is very effective for
alleviating separation anxiety. The bad news? Desensitization requires
time, patience, and until the treatment has solved the problem, you must
not allow your dog to experience any separation anxiety whatsoever. So,
even with desensitization, some management is required temporarily.
Jean
Donaldson offers one of the best explanations of desensitization
I’ve read in Dogs
Are From Neptune. I highly recommend it if you’re looking for
relief.
In the mean time, here are some key points she makes:
- “To fix separation anxiety, the dog has to experience the situation –
being left alone – without the accompanying anxiety.”
- The process of desensitization begins with identifying the precise
conditions that initially set off the slightest sign of your dog’s
anxiety, to your actual leaving and returning.
- Desensitization involves doing a series of exercises in which you
repeat, for example, brushing your teeth (if that’s when Samson starts
to get edgy) and combing your hair, and then not leaving.
- When (Samson) is relaxed when you brush your teeth and comb your
hair - “no pacing, no worried look, etc. – start working on the next
item in the sequence, making lunch.”
- “When you’ve made it to the door (which may take several sessions),
start off with very short absences, literally one second. Then come back
in, put the keys back, then pick them up and leave again for one
second. Do it over and over until it is clearly no big deal for the
dog.”
Jean reassures: "You will spend much more time getting the dog to
relax about…pre-departure cues than you will adding time increments
later on. Once you’re out the door doing absences, the progress is much
faster. You won’t always go up in one second increments either! The
point is: don’t rush the early work – it’s essential. This is where you
win the dog’s trust.”
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